The best breakfast on Hvar: the Riva's quiet secret
Most of Hvar Town wakes up late. We don't. A short guide to where to eat breakfast and brunch on Hvar, and what to order when you get there.
By 11am, half the island has decided to get on a boat. The other half is still asleep. Between those two states there's a small window, 08:00 to 10:00, give or take, that almost nobody talks about. We think it's the best window of the day in Hvar, and breakfast is the reason.
Why breakfast in Hvar is different
Hvar's restaurants are largely organised around lunch and dinner, partly tradition, partly tourism. Most kitchens don't open until noon. That means at 09:00 the harbour belongs to the fishermen, the cleaners, and a thin scatter of guests who figured out the secret: that the same terrace which fills up loudly at 21:00 is utterly calm with a cappuccino in front of it.
What to look for in a Hvar breakfast spot
- Sea view, not street view. Hvar's old town is beautiful but tight; the breakfast magic is on the Riva.
- Real eggs, not buffet trays. Look for places that cook to order: eggs benedict, omelettes, hell eggs. If you see a tray of scrambled eggs sitting under a heat lamp, walk on.
- Local ingredients. Pag cheese, Dalmatian prosciutto, Hvar honey, lavender, garden tomatoes. The good places lean on them.
- Coffee that takes ten seconds longer than it should. Not Italian-coffee-fast. Croatian coffee is meant to be sat with.
Our breakfast: a few things we're proud of
We open at 08:00 every day during the season. The signature plate is Toast Marigo: one Toast Benedict (grilled ham, bacon, poached eggs, hollandaise) and one Toast California (guacamole, roasted tomato, poached eggs) on the same plate. People always think they'll only finish half. They always finish both.
For something a little wilder there are Hell eggs: tomato sauce, eggs, mozzarella, basil, chili, the kind of dish that wakes you up faster than coffee. Or the Delicious Monster sandwich: grilled mortadella, mozzarella, pesto, arugula, cherry tomato, olive oil, aceto glaze.
If you're with kids or a slower morning, the tortillas (ham-egg-cheese, bacon-egg-cheese, or guacamole-tomato-cheese) and the fitness granola with seasonal fruit and yogurt do the job without overthinking it. Three smoothies, Pink Lady, Green Heaven, Purple Rain, for the swim-first crowd.
When to come
08:00 is empty. 09:00 is perfect. 10:00 starts to get busy. Breakfast service runs until 14:00, so even if you sleep in, you're not too late. Mimosas, by the way, are €9 from 10am onwards.
Written from the kitchen at Marigo Grill & Chill, Hvar.
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